handmade wardrobe · sewing

Ginger Jeans – take two!

Howdy friends! I’m back with another pair of Ginger Jeans! This pair is even better than the last!!

ginger jeans | basic stitch

Measurements & sizing

I often wish people gave their measurements, especially when they talk about fit and alterations. Mine are 27″ (waist) and 40″ (hips).

I cut a size 12 from the hips down. Above the hips, I graded into a size 6 to fit my waist. Grading is a mind adventure for me, but I made it happen!

ginger jeans | basic stitch


As you may recall, I finished my first pair of Ginger Jeans a couple months ago. There were some fit issues that I probably notice more than anyone else, so I knew I’d want to make some alterations. I enlisted the help of Heather to determine what changes should be made. Aside from grading in the seams to accommodate my small waist (or big hips?), she suggested three changes:

  1. Shorten the crotch (1/2″): I have never in my life thought about the length of my crotch. Thanks sewing.
  2. Thin out the back thigh (1/2″): I have also never thought of my thighs as thin. Thanks sewing.
  3. Lower the butt: Again, my butt is low? Thanks sewing.

I made all three of these alterations and these jeans fit so much better than the last pair! I started without the low butt adjustment, but after I tried them on, I decided it might be worth it. It may also be worth noting that I actually graded the pattern before cutting fabric this time instead of just taking in fabric until they “fit”.

ginger jeans | basic stitch


I got a great deal on this denim at Mary Jo’s Cloth Shop, which is about 30 miles away from me. I used Gutermann top-stitch thread from Wawak for all the top stitching. For the notions, I used a Jeans/Pants Notions kit from Thread Theory, which came with the buttons, rivets, and zip for the jeans. Because I didn’t rivet the back pockets and didn’t use the spare button, I can make another pair of jeans with this kit if I use another zipper (of which I have several).

ginger jeans | basic stitch

The jeans

When I first finished these jeans, I put them on and almost cried. I am so happy with the way they turned out. The alterations and fitting were a bit of a pain, but now I have the pattern ready to go for more pairs! I don’t think I’ve ever owned jeans that fit my waist without falling off and also gave my hips room to move around. RTW jeans are always too big at the waist or super tight at the hips. I didn’t even know what I was missing out on!!
ginger jeans | basic stitch ginger jeans | basic stitch

Next up

Within minutes of getting these off the machine, I ordered some Cone Mills S-Gene Denim. It’s supposed to have really good recovery so I’m planning to use it for a pair of the super skinny Ginger Jeans (view B). I might take a bit of a break from jeans, though; I have a lot of other projects roaming my mind that I want to get made!

ginger jeans | basic stitch

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